Aloe Cold Process

Our cold process tutorial this month uses Aloe Vera Liquid instead of water because we love alternative liquids! Aloe Vera Liquid is wonderfully soothing and moisturizing in cold process. We definitely had fun playing with colors to achieve this beautiful green ombre. Clover & Aloe is the perfect soft fragrance to compliment these gorgeous green colors, and it behaves amazingly with no acceleration or trace. Keep reading to find out more about how to make this beautiful soap!

What You’ll Need:

11 oz Coconut Oil
11 oz Palm Oil
5 oz Olive Oil
3 oz Kokum Butter
3 oz Castor Oil
3 oz Kukui Nut Oil

12 oz Aloe Vera Liquid
5.14 oz Lye

2.1 oz Clover & Aloe FO
Chrome Green Oxide
Titanium Dioxide


4 cup glass Pyrex
Small glass bowl
12 cup glass Pyrex
Stainless steel whisk
Ramekin or Dixie cup (3)
Measuring spoons
Mini Mixer
Silicone Spatula
Small container to measure fragrance
Spoon (4)
Easy Pour (3)

**If you are not local, you can get all of this and more at Bramble Berry! They will ship directly to you!**

If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out Bramble Berry’s FREE four part series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including Anne-Marie’s newest book, Pure Soapmaking. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.




In a small ramekin or dixie cup, measure out 1/2 tsp Titanium Dioxide and add about 2 tbs of any fixed oil (we chose Apricot Kernel Oil). Then combine using Bramble Berry’s mini mixer.
In a separate small ramekin, measure 1/2 tsp Titanium Dioxide and just a pinch of Chrome Green Oxide and disperse in oil using the same method.
In a third small ramekin, measure 1/8 tsp Chrome Green Oxide and 3/4 tsp of Titanium Dioxide and disperse.
In a fourth small ramekin, measure 1/2 tsp Chrome Green Oxide and disperse.


Weigh out 2.1 oz Clover & Aloe FO into a small container and set aside.

Mark all three of your easy pour containers between the 300 mL and 400 mL line.

Begin by organizing your area so that everything is ready to go. Place your ramekins of Green Chrome Oxide next to your easy pour in order of darkest to lightest. We will be coloring the remaining soap batter in the glass pyrex white, so have your white ramekin ready.


Measure 12 oz of Aloe Vera Liquid into one 4 cup glass Pyrex, and 5.14 oz of lye into a small glass bowl (or Pyrex). Make sure you are in a well-ventilated area, and you are wearing long sleeves, gloves, and goggles. Carefully add the lye to the Aloe Vera Liquid while gently stirring with a stainless steel whisk until the lye has completely dissolved. The Aloe lye will turn yellow and then orange. Allow the lye to cool to around 115 degrees by either labeling and setting aside, or by placing into a designated freezer. We recommend using Bramble Berry’s Infrared Thermometer. These are amazing because they are so easy to use and you don’t have to worry about getting your thermometer covered in lye water!

While the lye is cooling, weigh and combine your oils (making sure you are PRECISE!) and then microwave on 45 second bursts until the oils are around 115 degrees.

Once both the lye solution and the oils are around 115 degrees (between 10 degrees of each other) you can begin soaping!

Place the stick blender into the oils at an angle and burp the blender by gently knocking the stick blender on the bottom of the Pyrex. Pour the lye solution down the arm of the stick blender and start mixing until you have reached a thin trace. Check for trace often, as once trace has been reached it will begin to thicken quickly.

Once you have reached a thin trace, pour the soap batter into the designated easy pour containers to the line. You will have some leftover in the glass Pyrex which you will be coloring white.

Add your ramekins of color to their specified easy pour container. Color the remaining soap batter with the Titanium Dioxide (completely white) ramekin.

Divide the fragrance between the four layers (you can eyeball this).

Pour the darkest green layer into the tall 12″ Silicone Loaf Mold. Leave some of the soap in the easy pour for the top of the soap! Bang the mold on the counter to help the soap layer completely flatten out.

Pour the next darkest green layer on top of the first. If your soap is really thin, you may want to use a spatula to help prevent the second layer from breaking through the first. Our soap had thickened considerably by this point, so we did not need to do this. Bang the mold on the counter.

Repeat the last step with the lightest green layer and finally with the white layer.

Pour the remaining dark green batter in a line on the top of the soap. You may need to flatten it slightly with a spoon if it is too thick.

Using a skewer, swirl the top in a figure 8 pattern.

Spray with rubbing alcohol and cover to promote gel phase. Wait 3-4 days to cut. The soap will be extra soft because of the tall 12″ silicone loaf. You may want to pop it in the freezer for 10 minutes or so before attempting to unmold.

Allow your soap to cure for 4-6 weeks.


Don’t forget for the month of July take 15% off all ALOE products here in-store at Otion!

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2 Responses to Aloe Cold Process

  1. nancy moss July 28, 2017 at 4:02 PM #

    do you sell every thing at your store to do this project or do we have to order it?

    • Otion - The Soap Bar August 7, 2017 at 9:02 PM #

      We have everything you need to make this soap in-store. You can always give us a call and place an order just to make sure you get exactly what you’re looking for and in the size you need. Our number is 360-676-1030.