Scotch Whisky Cold Process Soap


It’s about time for a new cold process recipe. We were so excited to try out the new Scotch Whisky Fragrance oil from Bramble Berry that we couldn’t help but whip up a batch of soap to showcase it. This fragrance oil does discolor, so we ended up with a brownish-green color as an end result. The change was unexpected, but it didn’t alter the appearance of the unique swirl design. This project was one of our employee’s first experiences with cold process soaping so we decided to use one of Bramble Berry’s quick mixes to ease her into the process. To achieve a bar of soap that was a little more out of the box, we used a column mold for a circular design that would model the distinct swirls.

 

Please enjoy our tutorial below.

What You’ll Need:

33 oz Basic Quick Mix

11 oz Distilled Water

4.75 oz Lye (6%)

2.04 oz Scotch Whisky Fragrance Oil

One teaspoon Activated Charcoal

One teaspoon Titanium Dioxide

4 tablespoons Jojoba Oil

Hardware:

Digital Scale

One 2-quart mixing bowl

Small glass bowl to measure lye

Stick blender

Easy Pour mixing and measuring container

Silicone Spatula

Silicone Whisk

Container for Fragrance

Measuring spoons

Two small plastic mixing cups

Plastic mini mixer

Bramble Berry’s heavy duty column mold

 

**If you are not local, you can get all of this and more at Bramble Berry online. They will ship directly to you!**

If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out Bramble Berry’s FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including Anne-Marie’s newest book, Pure Soapmaking. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

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DIRECTIONS:

COLOR PREP:

In a small plastic measuring cup or container, measure out one teaspoon activated charcoal and two tablespoons of any fixed oil. We used jojoba oil for this recipe. Repeat with the titanium dioxide in a separate container.  Then combine using Bramble Berry’s mini mixer until fully incorporated and smooth.

LYE PREP:

Measure 11 oz of distilled water into one four cup glass container, and 4.75  oz of lye into a small glass bowl. Make sure you are in a well-ventilated area, and you are wearing long sleeves, gloves, and goggles. Carefully add the lye to the water while gently stirring with a whisk until the lye has completely dissolved. Allow the lye to cool to around 105 degrees by either labeling and setting aside, or by placing into a designated freezer. We recommend using Bramble Berry’s Infrared Thermometer. These are amazing because they are so easy to use and you don’t have to worry about getting your thermometer contaminated!

While the lye is cooling, weigh and combine your oils (making sure you are PRECISE!) and then microwave on 45 second bursts until the oils are around 105 degrees.

Once both the lye solution and the oils are around 105 degrees (between 10 degrees of each other) you can begin soaping!

Place the stick blender into the oils at an angle and burp the blender by gently knocking the stick blender on the bottom of the glass measuring bowl. Pour the lye solution down the arm of the stick blender and start mixing until you have reached a thin trace. Check for trace often, as once trace has been reached it will begin to thicken quickly.

Once you have reached a thin trace, pour 1/3 of the mixture into an easy pour measuring container. This will be colored with titanium dioxide. Add the activated charcoal color to the remaining soap batter.

 

Add all of your fragrance to the black mixture.

We want to create swirls within the column. We do this by alternating between the white and black soap batter. Make sure that you’re pouring the batter from a height of about 5-6 inches above the mold to ensure that your new layer can break through the previous layer. You can clip the sides of the column to make sure that it does not separate during the process.

 

Wait 3-4 days to cut. The soap will be soft around the edges, so just be extra careful while unmolding your soap.
You may want to pop it in the freezer for and hour or two before attempting to unmold.

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Green Tea Infused Cold Process

September is officially here, and we’re wondering how that happened so suddenly?  School is starting (or has already started) soon, and we are on the verge of more change as the facets of fall start to show themselves. Cooler evenings are upon us and our team enjoys a hot cup of tea to wind-down in the evening, so we decided to let our soap enjoy a cup of tea too! This cold process tutorial uses green tea instead of distilled water.  It gives our soap a boost of antioxidants, as well as a warm natural color. Please enjoy our tutorial below.

What You’ll Need:

15 oz Coconut Oil
5 oz Castor Oil
15 oz Palm Oil
12 oz Olive Oil
10 oz Rice Bran Oil
3 oz Kukui Nut Oil

25 oz Distilled Water
1.5 oz Green Tea Leaves
8.37 oz Lye (6%)

3 oz Crisp Cotton FO
Titanium Dioxide

Hardware:

Digital scale
5 quart glass mixing bowl
2 quart glass mixing bowl
Small glass bowl to measure lye
Stick blender
Small container to measure fragrance
32 oz glass mixing bowl
Stainless steel or silicone whisk (2)
Ramekin or Dixie cup (1)
Measuring spoons
Mini Mixer
Silicone Spatula
5 pound slidey bottom wood mold
Silicone liner for the 5 pound wood mold

**If you are not local, you can get all of this and more at Bramble Berry! They will ship directly to you!**

If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out Bramble Berry’s FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including Anne-Marie’s newest book, Pure Soapmaking. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

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DIRECTIONS:

COLOR PREP:

In a small ramekin or dixie cup, measure out 1 tablespoon of titanium dioxide and add about 2 tablespoons of any fixed oil (we chose Apricot Kernel Oil). Then combine using Bramble Berry’s mini mixer until fully incorporated and smooth.

TEA PREP:

Weigh out 25 oz of distilled water and heat up until 100 degrees Fahrenheit.

Add 1.5 oz of green tea leaves to the heated water, stir, and wait for 5 minutes.

Strain out all the leaves and then chill into a freezer until the tea is 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

LYE PREP:

Measure 20 oz of green tea into one 4 cup glass container, and 8.37 oz of lye into a small glass bowl. Make sure you are in a well-ventilated area, and you are wearing long sleeves, gloves, and goggles. Carefully add the lye to the green tea while gently stirring with a whisk until the lye has completely dissolved. Allow the lye to cool to around 105 degrees by either labeling and setting aside, or by placing into a designated freezer. We recommend using Bramble Berry’s Infrared Thermometer. These are amazing because they are so easy to use and you don’t have to worry about getting your thermometer contaminated!

 

While the lye is cooling, weigh and combine your oils (making sure you are PRECISE!) and then microwave on 45 second bursts until the oils are around 105 degrees.

Once both the lye solution and the oils are around 105 degrees (between 10 degrees of each other) you can begin soaping!

Place the stick blender into the oils at an angle and burp the blender by gently knocking the stick blender on the bottom of the glass measuring bowl. Pour the lye solution down the arm of the stick blender and start mixing until you have reached a thin trace. Check for trace often, as once trace has been reached it will begin to thicken quickly.

 

Once you have reached a thin trace, pour 40 oz of the soap batter into the 2 quart glass container.
You will be coloring this part with the titanium dioxide.

 

Divide the fragrance between the two containers of soap (you can eyeball this).


We want to create four layers to our soap. To help prevent break-through we used a spatula to help lay the layers on top of each other. You will start by pouring half of the uncolored soap into the mold (we used a scale to help us pour 20 ounces), and then carefully layer with half of the titanium dioxide batch (20 oz). Then finish up with another layer of the uncolored soap, and top it off with the titanium dioxide batch.  This will make for a very full mold.

With a spoon we swooped up out soap batter to one side to create an interesting top.


Next we used a small amount of the leftover diluted titanium dioxide to the taller part of the top.


Next we drew tiny figure eights into the white with the pointy end of a scewer.
Cover to promote gel phase. Wait 3-4 days to cut. The soap will be soft around the edges, so just be extra careful when unmolding your soap. You may want to pop it in the freezer for 10 minutes or so before attempting to unmold.

 

Don’t forget to allow your soap to cure for 4-6 weeks.
Let us know if you enjoyed this recipe and what you’d like to see a tutorial on in the future.

 

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Lavender Infused Aloe Vera Lotion

Heal and soothe skin damage with our lovely lavender infused aloe vera lotion. As you may know the aloe plant heals cracks, dryness, and other skin struggles. Though you may not know that adding lavender buds and essential oils to an aloe vera liquid creates the ultimate healing solution.

What You’ll Need:

1 oz Kukui Nut Oil
1 oz Fractionated Coconut Oil
0.4 oz Jojoba Oil
1.2 oz Matcha Green Tea Butter
0.9 oz Stearic Acid
1.1 oz Emulsifying Wax
22 oz Aloe Vera Liquid
1 cup Dried Lavender Buds
0.2 oz Carrot Extract
0.2 oz Optiphen
1 mL Lavender Fine Essential Oil
1 mL Cedarwood Essential Oil

Hardware:

Scale
Large Jar (1)
Heat-Safe container (2)
Stainless Steel Whisk
Stick Blender
1 Cup Measuring Cup
Silicone Spatula
4 oz Bottles with Black Caps (5)

**If you are not local, you can get all of this and more at brambleberry.com! They will ship directly to you!**

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DIRECTIONS:

ALOE INFUSION PREP:

In a large enough jar weigh out 22 ounces of aloe vera liquid. Then add 1 cup of dried lavender buds to the aloe vera and stir until all the buds are completely submerged.  Cover with a lid or plastic wrap and set aside for one week.  We like to stir our mixture daily to ensure an even infusion.

 

EQUIPMENT PREP:

 Disinfect your utensils by dipping them in a 5% bleach water solution and allowing to dry. This includes mixing containers, your stick blender, and any spoons or spatulas that may come in contact with your lotion. Your products must be as free as possible of germs, bacteria, and microbes.

 

ONE: In a heat-safe container, combine the kukui nut oil, fractionated coconut oil, jojoba oil, stearic acid
and emulsifying wax. Heat the container in the microwave in 30-second bursts until the waxes have fully
melted and the mixture is about 165° F.

 

TWO: Add your matcha green tea butter to your hot oil and wax mixture.
Then stir in the butter until completely dissolved.

THREE: Pour 16 ounces of the lavender infused aloe vera liquid into a second heat-safe container.
Heat in the microwave to about 160° F.

FOUR: Check the temperatures of both containers. Each should be about 140-150° F. Once they are at the
correct temperature, pour the oils and wax into the water and begin pulsing the stick blender. Blend the
mixture for 60-90 seconds, making sure the oil and water are fully emulsified. Be careful to “burp” your
stick blender by tamping it on the bottom of the container to release bubbles – you don’t want bubbles
trapped in your lotion.

FIVE: Continue stick blending until the temperature drops to about 130° F. Add the carrot extract, optiphen,
lavender fine essential oil, and the cedarwood essential oil and use the stick blender to blend for about 1-2 minutes more.

SIX: Carefully pour the lotion into bottles. Let the bottles sit overnight without a cap (otherwise condensation
can form inside the bottle). Once completely cooled, place the caps on the bottles and enjoy!

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Don’t forget for the month of August take 15% off all DRIED HERBS products here in-store.

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Aloe Cold Process

Our cold process tutorial this month uses Aloe Vera Liquid instead of water because we love alternative liquids! Aloe Vera Liquid is wonderfully soothing and moisturizing in cold process. We definitely had fun playing with colors to achieve this beautiful green ombre. Clover & Aloe is the perfect soft fragrance to compliment these gorgeous green colors, and it behaves amazingly with no acceleration or trace. Keep reading to find out more about how to make this beautiful soap!

What You’ll Need:

11 oz Coconut Oil
11 oz Palm Oil
5 oz Olive Oil
3 oz Kokum Butter
3 oz Castor Oil
3 oz Kukui Nut Oil

12 oz Aloe Vera Liquid
5.14 oz Lye

2.1 oz Clover & Aloe FO
Chrome Green Oxide
Titanium Dioxide

Hardware:

Scale
4 cup glass Pyrex
Small glass bowl
12 cup glass Pyrex
Stainless steel whisk
Ramekin or Dixie cup (3)
Measuring spoons
Mini Mixer
Silicone Spatula
Small container to measure fragrance
Spoon (4)
Easy Pour (3)

**If you are not local, you can get all of this and more at Bramble Berry! They will ship directly to you!**

If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out Bramble Berry’s FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including Anne-Marie’s newest book, Pure Soapmaking. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

__________

DIRECTIONS:

COLOR PREP:

In a small ramekin or dixie cup, measure out 1/2 tsp Titanium Dioxide and add about 2 tbs of any fixed oil (we chose Apricot Kernel Oil). Then combine using Bramble Berry’s mini mixer.
In a separate small ramekin, measure 1/2 tsp Titanium Dioxide and just a pinch of Chrome Green Oxide and disperse in oil using the same method.
In a third small ramekin, measure 1/8 tsp Chrome Green Oxide and 3/4 tsp of Titanium Dioxide and disperse.
In a fourth small ramekin, measure 1/2 tsp Chrome Green Oxide and disperse.

OTHER PREP:

Weigh out 2.1 oz Clover & Aloe FO into a small container and set aside.

Mark all three of your easy pour containers between the 300 mL and 400 mL line.

Begin by organizing your area so that everything is ready to go. Place your ramekins of Green Chrome Oxide next to your easy pour in order of darkest to lightest. We will be coloring the remaining soap batter in the glass pyrex white, so have your white ramekin ready.

LYE PREP:

Measure 12 oz of Aloe Vera Liquid into one 4 cup glass Pyrex, and 5.14 oz of lye into a small glass bowl (or Pyrex). Make sure you are in a well-ventilated area, and you are wearing long sleeves, gloves, and goggles. Carefully add the lye to the Aloe Vera Liquid while gently stirring with a stainless steel whisk until the lye has completely dissolved. The Aloe lye will turn yellow and then orange. Allow the lye to cool to around 115 degrees by either labeling and setting aside, or by placing into a designated freezer. We recommend using Bramble Berry’s Infrared Thermometer. These are amazing because they are so easy to use and you don’t have to worry about getting your thermometer covered in lye water!

While the lye is cooling, weigh and combine your oils (making sure you are PRECISE!) and then microwave on 45 second bursts until the oils are around 115 degrees.

Once both the lye solution and the oils are around 115 degrees (between 10 degrees of each other) you can begin soaping!

Place the stick blender into the oils at an angle and burp the blender by gently knocking the stick blender on the bottom of the Pyrex. Pour the lye solution down the arm of the stick blender and start mixing until you have reached a thin trace. Check for trace often, as once trace has been reached it will begin to thicken quickly.

Once you have reached a thin trace, pour the soap batter into the designated easy pour containers to the line. You will have some leftover in the glass Pyrex which you will be coloring white.

Add your ramekins of color to their specified easy pour container. Color the remaining soap batter with the Titanium Dioxide (completely white) ramekin.

Divide the fragrance between the four layers (you can eyeball this).

Pour the darkest green layer into the tall 12″ Silicone Loaf Mold. Leave some of the soap in the easy pour for the top of the soap! Bang the mold on the counter to help the soap layer completely flatten out.

Pour the next darkest green layer on top of the first. If your soap is really thin, you may want to use a spatula to help prevent the second layer from breaking through the first. Our soap had thickened considerably by this point, so we did not need to do this. Bang the mold on the counter.

Repeat the last step with the lightest green layer and finally with the white layer.

Pour the remaining dark green batter in a line on the top of the soap. You may need to flatten it slightly with a spoon if it is too thick.

Using a skewer, swirl the top in a figure 8 pattern.

Spray with rubbing alcohol and cover to promote gel phase. Wait 3-4 days to cut. The soap will be extra soft because of the tall 12″ silicone loaf. You may want to pop it in the freezer for 10 minutes or so before attempting to unmold.

Allow your soap to cure for 4-6 weeks.

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Don’t forget for the month of July take 15% off all ALOE products here in-store at Otion!

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Clover & Aloe Shaving Cream

Continuing on with Aloe month, this wonderfully moisturizing shaving cream is the perfect addition for Aloe lovers! This amazing shaving cream is packed full of incredible ingredients such as Kokum Butter and Coconut Oil, making it so moisturizing you don’t even need to apply a lotion after shaving! Bentonite Clay helps create the perfect slip, and Natural Castile Soap ensures you are getting clean while you shave! And of course the addition of Aloe Extract makes it soothing for those days where you’ve had just a bit too much sun. It works great as a facial shaving cream as well, just reduce the amount of fragrance! Keep reading to find out more about this incredible project!

What You’ll Need:

5 oz Coconut Oil
4 oz Kokum Butter
2 oz Rice Bran Oil
1.5 oz Natural Castile Liquid Soap Base
1 oz Bentonite Clay
2 mL Optiphen
2 mL Aloe Extract
3 mL Clover & Aloe FO

**Not local? You can get all of this and more at Bramble Berry! And they will ship directly to you!**
(3) 4 oz Bail Jars
Temp Gun
Easy Pour
Scale
Stirring Utensil

Directions:

In an easy pour container, weigh out 5 oz of hot Coconut Oil.

In small chunks add 4 oz of Kokum Butter and stir until dissolved. You may need to microwave for an extra 20 seconds or so to accomplish this.

Once Kokum Butter has completely melted, add 2 oz of Rice Bran Oil and 1.5 oz of Natural Castile Liquid Soap Base and stir.

Add 1 oz Bentonite Clay and stir until clumps are completely gone. This may take a few minutes. You can run into issues of separation if not mixed properly, so when you think you’re done keep mixing for a couple extra minutes!

Add 2 mL Optiphen and 2 mL Aloe Extract and stir well.

Add 3 mL Clover & Aloe fragrance oil and mix VERY well. If you are making a facial shaving cream, we recommend only adding about half the fragrance.

Place your easy pour in the freezer and check on it every 5 minutes or so, stirring well and checking the temperature until it reaches 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Once you have reached 65 degrees, give it one last good stir and pour between three 4 oz plastic bail jars.

Enjoy your wonderfully moisturizing shaving cream!

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Soothing Aloe Vera Peppermint Spray

What’s a better way to help soothe a sunburn than Aloe? Peppermint E.O. of course! Peppermint essential oil is thought to be soothing and cooling. Hungarian Lavender blends wonderfully with Peppermint, and adds an extra touch of healing. This spray works wonders to help soothe and calm minor sunburns. For us Washingtonians who so rarely see the sun, it is a much needed addition to our cosmetic arsenal!

What You’ll Need:

10 oz Aloe Vera Liquid
2 oz Cucumber Water
3 mL Optiphen ND
10 drops Peppermint 2nd Dist. E.O.
5 drops Hungarian Lavender E.O.

Hardware:

(3) 4 oz Blue Glass Spray Bottles **Available only at Otion**
Waterproof Labels
Scale
Pyrex
Droppers (3)
Funnel (optional)

*Not local? You can get all of this and more at Bramble Berry! Plus they will ship directly to you!*

Directions:

Weigh out 10 oz Aloe Vera Liquid into a glass pyrex.

Add 2 oz Cucumber Water.

Using a dropper, add 3 mL Optiphen ND to prevent bacteria growth.

Using a clean dropper, add 10 drops of Peppermint E.O. for a cooling effect. You can add more if you would like it to be stronger.

Using a clean dropper, add 5 drops of Hungarian Lavender E.O. for an additional soothing touch. You can add more if you like.

Mix well.

Pour into 4 oz Blue Glass Spray Bottles. You can use a funnel or carefully pour straight from the Pyrex.

If you would like to add a label, print on waterproof labels and attach as shown.

NOTE: The labels we used are not suitable for resale. If you are interested in selling and want to know more about how to properly label your items, check out this Soap and Cosmetic Labeling book that we offer.

To use, spray generously to sunburns 3-4 times a day to help soothe irritated skin.

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Love Aloe for sunburns, but thinking you want to try something a little different? Check out this Soap Queen blog on Skin Soothing Aloe Cubes!

Don’t forget, for the month of July take 15% off all ALOE products here in-store at Otion!

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