Archive | Men’s Products

Coffee Candle

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Bramble Berry’s 100% Handmade Mug is just too cute, we HAD to incorporate it into our coffee themed month! One of the best parts when using a mug as a candle jar is the extended burn time! How can you say no to a candle that burns longer?! The mug can handle heat better than normal glass, so the warmth of the container will not melt the wax quickly like a glass container does. This candle had a burn time of almost 40 hours! WOW!

What You’ll Need:

14 oz Nature C-3 Wax
CD 20 Wick
.9 oz Espresso FO
Orange Candle Dye Block
Black Candle Dye Block

100% Handmade Mug
Scale
Large (4 Cup) Pyrex
Butter Knife (2)
Fork

**If you are not local, you can get all of this and more at Bramble Berry! They will ship directly to you!**

**Quick Tip**
Put a butter knife in the freezer. This comes in handy when you want to check on what color your candle will turn once it has completely cooled and solidified.

Weigh out 14 oz of Nature C-3 wax into a microwave safe container (we used a 4 cup Pyrex). Melt in microwave on 30 second bursts until fully melted (Approximately 3 1/2 min and 160 degrees Fahrenheit). Using a butter knife, shave about a third of the Black Candle Dye Block and mix into melted wax and mix well until fully melted.

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Using a clean butter knife, shred about half the amount of Orange Candle Dye Block and mix well until pieces have fully melted.

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It can be difficult to know what color your wax will be once it hardens, as it will look much darker when it is melted. Take the butter knife out of the freezer and dip it in the melted wax. It will instantly solidify to the color your candle will become.

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Once you have reached your desired color, add 0.9 oz Espresso F.O. and mix well.

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 Take the CD-20 wick and dip the end into the melted wax. Follow with ‘gluing’ the wick to the bottom of the mug. After the wick is adhered to the mug, grab a pen and lay it on top of the mug and carefully clip the wick into the pen as shown in the below picture. This helps the wick stay in place when you pour the wax.

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Slowly pour the melted wax into your mug until it is ALMOST full.

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You may have some extra wax. Bramble Berry offers Small Cube Wax Tarts for Wax Melts which are perfect for any extra wax.

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Cover your candle to help it insulate and cool slower. Let sit at least 24 hours before use to ensure the candle has completely solidified.

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Like this blog? Check out this Soap Queen blog on geometric candles!

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Salty Mariner Cold Process

Salty Mariner FinalBoy was this soap fun to make! We knew when we started out that Salty Mariner accelerates trace, but we didn’t realize it can produce ricing. We decided to roll with the punches and we ended up with one of favorite soaps to-date! This salty soap was inspired by the ebb and flow of the Ocean. Salty Mariner is a fresh and relaxing scent, while the simple and clean top with Fine Black Sea Salt adds the perfect touch to our nautical soap!

What You’ll Need:

5.2 oz Lye
12 oz Distilled Water

2 oz Apricot Kernel Oil
12 oz Coconut Oil
8 oz Olive Oil
12 oz Palm Oil
2 oz Rice Bran Oil

1/2 tsp Ultramarine Blue
1/2 tsp Titanium Dioxide
About 2 tbsp any fixed oil to disperse colors
2 oz Salty Mariner

About 2 tsp Sparkle Gold Mica
Fine Black Sea Salt

Hardware:

Scale
4 cup glass Pyrex (2)
12 cup glass Pyrex
Stainless steel whisk
Ramekin or Dixie cup (2)
Measuring spoons
Mini Mixer
Silicone Spatula
Small container to measure fragrance
Fork (2)
Easy Pour (2)
Powder Sifter

**If you are not local, you can get all of this and more at Bramble Berry! They will ship directly to you!**

If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out Bramble Berry’s FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including Anne-Marie’s newest book, Pure Soapmaking. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

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DIRECTIONS:

COLOR PREP:

In a small ramekin or dixie cup, measure out 1/2 tsp Ultramarine Blue and add about 1 tbs of any fixed oil (we chose Meadowfoam Oil). Then combine using Bramble Berry’s mini mixer.
In a separate small ramekin, disperse 1/2 tsp of Titanium Dioxide using the same method.

OTHER PREP:

Weigh out 2 oz Salty Mariner FO into a small container and set aside.

Mark both of your easy pour containers at just below the 500 mL line.

Begin by organizing your area so that everything is ready to go. Place your ramekin of titanium dioxide by one of the easy pour containers. Have your Sparkle Gold Mica ready to dust, and your Fine Black Sea Salt ready.

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LYE PREP:

Measure the distilled water into one 4 cup glass Pyrex, and the lye into another. Make sure you are in a well-ventilated area, and you are wearing long sleeves, gloves, and goggles. Carefully add the lye to the water while gently stirring with a stainless steel whisk until solution is clear. Allow the lye to cool to around 115 degrees by either labeling and setting aside, or by placing into a designated freezer. We recommend using Bramble Berry’s Infrared Thermometer. These are amazing because they are so easy to use and you don’t have to worry about getting your thermometer covered in lye water!

While the lye is cooling, weigh and combine your oils (making sure you are PRECISE!) and then microwave on 45 second bursts until the oils are around 115 degrees.

Once both the lye solution and the oils are around 115 degrees (between 10 degrees of each other) you can begin soaping!

Place the stick blender into the oils at an angle and burp the blender by gently knocking the stick blender on the bottom of the Pyrex. Pour the lye solution down the arm of the stick blender and start mixing until you have reached a thin trace.

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Pour the soap batter to the lines on the easy pour containers. There should be some soap remaining after pouring.

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Add the dispersed Ultramarine Blue to the remaining soap (the soap NOT in either of the easy pours).

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Add the titanium dioxide to one of the easy pours. The second easy pour will not be colored.

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Once your color is fully incorporated, add ALL of the fragrance to the blue layer. This fragrance will immediately begin to rice and accelerate your traces. Stir your fragrance in quickly.

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Pour the white soap clockwise at 12 o’clock, 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock, and 9 o’clock in order to create an in-the-pot-swirl. Pour any remaining soap into the middle of the blue batter.

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Using the handle of a wooden spoon, swirl once through the concoction.

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Pour the in-the-pot swirl into the silicone loaf.

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Using a regular kitchen spoon, swoop the middle of the soap to create a wavy look in the soap.

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Using a powder sifter, sprinkle Sparkle Gold Mica on top of the first layer. We want the layer to be relatively thick so we can see the vein easily. However this can lead to separation of layers. Try to avoid the corners of the soap to help prevent separation.

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Now using a silicone spoon to help prevent breakthrough, slowly and carefully add the last layer of soap (the uncolored one) on top of the Sparkle Gold Mica.

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Spoon the soap towards the middle to create a peak look. You may need to wait a few minutes until the soap has set enough to be able to achieve this look.

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Sprinkle Fine Black Sea Salt on the peak of the soap.

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Spray with rubbing alcohol to help prevent soda ash and cover to help promote gel phase. Do not spray with rubbing alcohol after initial spray, as the activated charcoal in the salt can bleed.

Wait at least 48 hours to cut your soap. Lay on its side to cut to help prevent the salt from scratching the soap.

Allow to cure for 4-6 weeks before use. Enjoy!

Salty Final

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Batman Hanger Swirl Soap

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Na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na Na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na Batman! What would super hero month be without the famous Batman?? This cold process soap was inspired by our good Samaritan friend Batman! We chose to use Bramble Berry’s Lots of Lather Quick Mix as our recipe. This Quick mix yields a wonderfully moisturizing bar of soap with-you guessed it-an amazing lather! Scented with Vetyver fragrance oil to add a wonderfully woodsy aroma, this soap is sure to pack a powerfully cleansing kick to your daily  routine!

***This recipe yields about three pounds of soap***

What You’ll Need:

Ingredients:

33 oz Lots of Lather Quick Mix
4.7 oz lye
11 oz water

1 tsp activated charcoal (dispersed in avocado oil)
1/2 tsp fizzy lemonade (dispersed in avocado oil)
2 oz Vetyver FO

Hardware:

Scale
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
Hanger Swirl Tool
Small ramekins (2)
Mini Mixer
Thermometer
Glass pyrex (2 four oz, 1 two quartz)
Easy Pour
Stainless steel whisk
Stick Blender
Goggles
Gloves

*If you are not local, you can get all of this and more at Bramble Berry! They will ship directly to you!**

If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out Brambleberry’s FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including Anne-Marie’s newest book, Pure Soapmaking. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

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DIRECTIONS:

COLOR PREP:

In a small ramekin or dixie cup, measure out 1 tsp activated charcoal and add a small amount of any fixed oil (we chose avocado oil). Use just enough oil to saturate the charcoal.  Then combine using Bramble Berry’s mini mixer.
In a separate small ramekin, disperse 1/2 tsp fizzy lemonade in avocado oil using the same method.

Weigh out 2 oz Vetyver FO into a small container and set aside.

OTHER PREP:

Mark your easy pour container at the 500 mL line.

Begin by organizing your area so that everything is ready to go. Place your ramekin of fizzy lemonade by the easy pour container. Have your fragrance, mold, and swirl hanger ready to go. Measure the swirl hanger to the length of the 10″ silicone loaf.

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LYE PREP:

Measure the distilled water into one glass container, and the lye into another. Carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir with a stainless steel whisk until solution is clear. Allow the lye to cool to around 115 degrees by either labeling and setting aside, or by placing into a designated freezer. We recommend using Brambleberry’s Infrared Thermometer. These are amazing because they are so easy to use and you don’t have to worry about getting your thermometer covered in lye water!

While the lye is cooling, microwave the lots of lather quick mix on 30 second bursts until the oils are around 115 degrees.

Once both the lye solution and the lots of lather quick mix solution are around 115 degrees (between 10 degrees of each other) you can begin soaping! Make sure you have gloves, goggles and long sleeves for protection.

Place the stick blender into the oils at an angle and burp the blender by gently knocking the stick blender on the bottom of the Pyrex to avoid mixing in any air bubbles. Pour the lye solution down the arm of the stick blender and start mixing until you have reached a thin trace.

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Once you have reached trace, pour the soap batter in your easy pour container to the line. Add the dispersed fizzy lemonade and mix well until fully incorporated. Be sure the get all the sides of the easy pour.

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Leave the rest of the soap batter in the 2 quart mixing bowl and add the dispersed activated charcoal. Mix well until fully incorporated.

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Add about 1/3 of the fragrance to the fizzy lemonade soap batter and mix well (you can eyeball this).

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Add the rest of the fragrance oil to the activated charcoal soap batter and mix well.

Pour a thin layer of the activated charcoal layer on the bottom of the 10″ silicone loaf mold.

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Gently tap the mold on the table to even the soap out.

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Pour about half the yellow soap batter to one side of the silicone loaf mold.

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Pour most of the remaining activated charcoal soap batter on the opposite side of the yellow soap batter.

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Pour the remaining yellow soap batter on the same side as before.

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Pour the remaining activated charcoal batter on top of the soap.

Push the hanger down the side of the soap with the yellow soap batter and swirl away from your body 2-3 times, emerging from the soap in the middle of the loaf.

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Spoon the middle of the soap.

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Spray with 99% rubbing alcohol to help prevent soda ash and cover to promote gel phase.

Wait at least 48 hours to cut with a multi-bar cutter. Let cure 4-6 weeks.

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Enjoy your batman-themed soap!

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Don’t forget, for the month of April, take 15% off botanicals here in-store at Otion.

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No. 2 Poo Spray

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Let’s be real, we all go number two. Two or three sprays of this before you go, and no one will ever know. 😉

What You’ll Need:

Distilled Water
1 tsp. Liquid Glycerin
2 tbsp. Rubbing Alcohol
1 mL Lavender 40/42 EO
1 mL Orange 10x EO
1 mL Optiphen ND
4 oz Blue Glass Spray Bottle (only sold at Otion)

**If you are not local, you can get all of this and more at Bramble Berry! They will ship directly to you!**

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In the glass spray bottle add the essential oils, optiphen nd and liquid glycerin and give it all a swirl to mix together.

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Add the rubbing alcohol to the bottle and top off with distilled water.

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Tighten the spray top on the bottle and give a good shake.

Shake and spritz 2-3 times in the toilet bowl before going number two!

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Chapped Nose Ointment

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The wind is blowing, the snow is snowing and your little nose is just so cold and irritated.  Don’t fret!  We have the perfect solution to help keep your ‘Rudolph nose’ from making an unsightly appearance.  The soothing qualities of calendula, oat, and aloe will help alleviate and gently moisturize any chapped skin you may have. Plus, it makes a great addition to those care-packages you may be sending out this holiday season.

What You’ll Need:

0.7 oz White Beeswax
0.7 oz Shea Butter
1 oz Calendula Infused Sweet Almond Oil
2 drops Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil
2 drops Egyptian Geranium Essential Oil
10 drops Carrot Extract
10 drops Oat Extract
5 drops Aloe Extract
5 Slidey Lip Tins

**If you are not local, you can get all of this and more at Bramble Berry! They will ship directly to you!**

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In a jar, add 1 oz dried calendula herb and completely submerge with sweet almond oil. Place it in a crockpot full of water. Be sure the water doesn’t spill into the jar.
Place on low for 8 hours. This creates a hot infusion of calendula into the oil.

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After the hot infusion is done, pour the oil in a different container straining it so you don’t get any calendula herb in it. Then, weigh out the beeswax and 1 oz calendula infused sweet almond oil and heat in the microwave on 30 second bursts until the wax is completely melted.
*You will have sweet almond oil left over, pour into a container and use for another project!*

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Once the wax is melted, add in the shea butter. Microwave again on 15 second bursts until the butter is melted.

Now you will add in the extracts and the essential oils. Once added, stir until completely incorporated.

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Pour into the slidey lip tins and let fully solidify.

With this cold weather we’ve been having, your nose might feel a little bit chapped. Rub some of this ointment on it for amazing healing and soothing properties!

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Rosemary Lavender Cold Process

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When it comes to making soap for friends, it’s common to find that not all scents are crowd favorites. However, reverting back to blends of two or three essential oils can often please a lot of people at once. Rosemary and Lavender? Yes please. We also decided to try out a fun natural colorant – tomato paste! Your friends will be sure to enjoy this beautiful soap. 🙂

 What You’ll Need:

22 oz Distilled Water
8.44 oz Sodium Hydroxide
5 oz Castor Oil
20 oz Coconut Oil
16 oz Olive Oil Pure
10 oz Rice Bran Oil
9 oz Shea Butter

2 oz Lavender 40/42 EO
1.5 oz Rosemary EO
2.5 tsp. Rose Clay (40 oz soap)
1.5 tsp. Alkanet Root (30 oz soap)
0.5 oz Tomato Paste (10 oz soap)
1.5 tsp. Sodium Lactate

5lb Wood Mold
5lb Silicone Liner
5lb Multi-Pour Sectioning Tool

**If you are not local, you can get all of this and more at Bramble Berry! They will ship directly to you!**

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COLOR PREP:

In small ramekins or dixie cups, measure out each natural colorant and add 1 tbsp. of any fixed oil. We used sunflower oil. Mix using Bramble Berry’s mini mixer and set aside. You do not need to mix the tomato paste with a fixed oil, this one you can weigh out and just set aside.

We also drew a line on each glass container to show exactly where we needed to pour our soap to. On one container, we made a line at 30 oz and another at 10 oz.. There will be 40 oz left in your original container. This will make it easier to separate the soap batter out.

Weigh out 2 oz Lavender 40/42 EO and 1.5 oz Rosemary EO and set aside.

LYE PREP:

Separately weigh out the distilled water and lye into glass containers. As always, carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir with a stainless steel whisk until solution is clear. You can label and set aside, or you can put it into a designated freezer to cool down faster.

While the lye is cooling, weigh out all the oils in a large glass pyrex bowl and heat in the microwave until the oils are around 100 degrees.

Once the oils and lye solution are around 100 degrees (between 15 degrees of each other) you can now make your soap. Make sure you have gloves, goggles and long sleeves on while you are starting to make soap.

Put the stick blender into the oils and burp the blender so you avoid mixing in any air bubbles. Pour the lye solution down the arm of the stick blender and start mixing until you have reached a light trace.

Before you start soaping, assemble the 5lb multi-pour sectioning tool into the 5lb wooden mold. Be sure you have three sections.

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Once you have reached a light trace, separate the soap batch out. Pour 30 oz into one of your containers, and 1o oz into another.

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Mix in the colors into the following containers:
40 oz = Rose Clay
30 oz = Alkanet Root
10 oz = Tomato Paste

Mix in completely with a whisk or fork.

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After the color is added, eyeball the fragrance oil into each container and mix in thoroughly.

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Now you are ready to pour!

This is how we wanted the soap to look:

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Pour the rose clay colored soap into all three sections so the batter is filled evenly across the sections.

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We then poured the tomato paste soap into the far right section.

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And last but not least, pour the alkanet root soap into the last two sections evenly.
Technically you don’t need the far left section, but it helps stabilize the center piece.

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Carefully take out the sectioning tool and swirl with a skewer or another utensil.

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Spray the top with 99% rubbing alcohol and insulate. These two things will help prevent soda ash and encourage gel phase.

After a few days, unmold and cut. Let the soap bars cure for 4-6 weeks before enjoying!

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(The rippling in between the layers was due to thicker trace and can be prevented by soaping at a thinner trace.)

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