Archive | Coloring Your Soaps

Coffee Cold Process Soap

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Ever wonder what to do with your leftover coffee in the coffee pot? Or the coffee grounds? Well worry no more, soaping is the solution (isn’t it always?)! Using coffee instead of water to make your soap is surprisingly easy, and incorporating local coffee helps with the “locally handmade” aspect of artisan soap. When first combining your lye and your coffee, the solution will smell quite foul! But once your soap has been made, that will disappear, leaving behind Hazelnut Toffee and Turkish Mocha to make a hearty coffee fragrance. Keep caffeinated and keep on soaping!

What You’ll Need:

12 oz Brewed Coffee
5.26 oz Lye

12 oz Coconut Oil
12 oz Palm Oil
5 oz Sweet Almond Oil
3 oz Castor Oil
4 oz Hazelnut Oil

.9 oz Hazelnut Toffee FO
.9 oz Turkish Mocha FO

1/2 tsp Titanium Dioxide
1/2 tsp Cappuccino Mica

About 4 tbs Ground Coffee (unbrewed)
About 2 tbs Whole Coffee Beans

Hardware:

Scale
4 cup glass Pyrex (2)
12 cup glass Pyrex
Stainless steel whisk
Ramekin or Dixie cup (2)
Measuring spoons
Mini Mixer
Silicone Spatula
Small container to measure fragrance
Fork (2)
Easy Pour (2)

**If you are not local, you can get all of this and more at Bramble Berry! They will ship directly to you!**

If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out Bramble Berry’s FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including Anne-Marie’s newest book, Pure Soapmaking. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

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DIRECTIONS:

COLOR PREP:

In a small ramekin or dixie cup, measure out 1/2 tsp Titanium Dioxide and add about 2 tbs of any fixed oil (we chose Avocado Oil). Then combine using Bramble Berry’s mini mixer.
In a separate small ramekin, disperse 1/2 tsp of Cappuccino using the same method.

OTHER PREP:

Weigh out .9 oz Hazelnut Toffee FO and .9 Turkish Mocha FO into a small container and set aside (you can combine the fragrances in the same container)

Mark both of your easy pour containers at just below the 500 mL line.

Begin by organizing your area so that everything is ready to go. Place your ramekin of Titanium Dioxide by one of the easy pour containers and your Cappuccino Mica by the other. Have your coffee grounds and coffee beans ready to go.

COFFEE PREP:

Brew your coffee relatively strong. We used 2 cups of water with 4 tbs of coffee grounds. The stronger the coffee, the darker your soap will be. Allow the coffee to cool room temperature, if not cooler. The cooler your coffee is the less it will smell when you add your lye, and the less it will discolor your soap.

We chose to use unbrewed coffee grounds for the veins in between layers and for the middle layer in which we incorporated the coffee grounds. Unbrewed coffee grounds can discolor your soap, but our soap was already so dark it did not affect our final product!

LYE PREP:

Measure 12 oz of coffee into one 4 cup glass Pyrex, and 5.6 oz of lye into another. Make sure you are in a well-ventilated area, and you are wearing long sleeves, gloves, and goggles. Carefully add the lye to the Coffee while gently stirring with a stainless steel whisk until the lye has completely dissolved. The lye coffee will smell super bad! Allow the lye to cool to around 115 degrees by either labeling and setting aside, or by placing into a designated freezer. We recommend using Bramble Berry’s Infrared Thermometer. These are amazing because they are so easy to use and you don’t have to worry about getting your thermometer covered in lye water!

While the lye is cooling, weigh and combine your oils (making sure you are PRECISE!) and then microwave on 45 second bursts until the oils are around 115 degrees.

Once both the lye solution and the oils are around 115 degrees (between 10 degrees of each other) you can begin soaping!

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Place the stick blender into the oils at an angle and burp the blender by gently knocking the stick blender on the bottom of the Pyrex. Pour the lye solution down the arm of the stick blender and start mixing until you have reached a thin trace.
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Once you have reached a thin trace, pour the soap batter in the designated easy pour containers to the line.

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Add the cappuccino Mica to one of the easy pours, and the Titanium Dioxide to the other. Mix well.

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Add about half of the fragrance to the Cappuccino Mica easy pour. You can eyeball this. Mix well.

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Pour the Cappuccino layer into the 10″ Silicone Loaf Mold.

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Using a mini spatula, texture the layer using a swooping method.

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Sprinkle coffee grounds on top of the first layer, avoiding the sides to help prevent separation.

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Add about 2 tbsp of coffee grounds to the uncolored layer of soap. Mix well.

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Add the rest of the fragrance and mix well. Using a silicone spatula to help prevent breakthroughs, pour the coffee ground layer on top of the Cappuccino layer.

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Using a spatula, texture the second layer using the same technique as before.

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Sprinkle coffee grounds on top of the second layer, again avoiding the sides to help prevent separation.

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Using a silicone spatula to help prevent breakthrough, pour the Titanium Dioxide layer on top of the coffee grounds layer.

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Spoon the soap to the middle to create a small peak. You may need to wait a few minutes until the soap thickens up enough to do this. Be careful to not spoon too deep into the top layer, or you may scoop coffee grounds up to the top layer. We want this top layer to be uncolored, without grounds.

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Add coffee beans to the top of the peak.

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Allow to sit out at room temperature, uncovered, for three days. Unmold carefully, as the coffee prolongs the hardening and curing process.

Cut the soap on it’s side to help prevent the coffee beans and grounds from creating scrape marks on the soap.

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Allow to cure 6-8 weeks before use.

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Want to learn more about making coffee soap? Check out this Soap Queen blog.

Don’t forget, for the month of June take 15% off all Vanilla Fragrance Oils here in-store at Otion! **This sale does not apply to flavor oils or special orders**

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Salty Mariner Cold Process

Salty Mariner FinalBoy was this soap fun to make! We knew when we started out that Salty Mariner accelerates trace, but we didn’t realize it can produce ricing. We decided to roll with the punches and we ended up with one of favorite soaps to-date! This salty soap was inspired by the ebb and flow of the Ocean. Salty Mariner is a fresh and relaxing scent, while the simple and clean top with Fine Black Sea Salt adds the perfect touch to our nautical soap!

What You’ll Need:

5.2 oz Lye
12 oz Distilled Water

2 oz Apricot Kernel Oil
12 oz Coconut Oil
8 oz Olive Oil
12 oz Palm Oil
2 oz Rice Bran Oil

1/2 tsp Ultramarine Blue
1/2 tsp Titanium Dioxide
About 2 tbsp any fixed oil to disperse colors
2 oz Salty Mariner

About 2 tsp Sparkle Gold Mica
Fine Black Sea Salt

Hardware:

Scale
4 cup glass Pyrex (2)
12 cup glass Pyrex
Stainless steel whisk
Ramekin or Dixie cup (2)
Measuring spoons
Mini Mixer
Silicone Spatula
Small container to measure fragrance
Fork (2)
Easy Pour (2)
Powder Sifter

**If you are not local, you can get all of this and more at Bramble Berry! They will ship directly to you!**

If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out Bramble Berry’s FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including Anne-Marie’s newest book, Pure Soapmaking. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

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DIRECTIONS:

COLOR PREP:

In a small ramekin or dixie cup, measure out 1/2 tsp Ultramarine Blue and add about 1 tbs of any fixed oil (we chose Meadowfoam Oil). Then combine using Bramble Berry’s mini mixer.
In a separate small ramekin, disperse 1/2 tsp of Titanium Dioxide using the same method.

OTHER PREP:

Weigh out 2 oz Salty Mariner FO into a small container and set aside.

Mark both of your easy pour containers at just below the 500 mL line.

Begin by organizing your area so that everything is ready to go. Place your ramekin of titanium dioxide by one of the easy pour containers. Have your Sparkle Gold Mica ready to dust, and your Fine Black Sea Salt ready.

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LYE PREP:

Measure the distilled water into one 4 cup glass Pyrex, and the lye into another. Make sure you are in a well-ventilated area, and you are wearing long sleeves, gloves, and goggles. Carefully add the lye to the water while gently stirring with a stainless steel whisk until solution is clear. Allow the lye to cool to around 115 degrees by either labeling and setting aside, or by placing into a designated freezer. We recommend using Bramble Berry’s Infrared Thermometer. These are amazing because they are so easy to use and you don’t have to worry about getting your thermometer covered in lye water!

While the lye is cooling, weigh and combine your oils (making sure you are PRECISE!) and then microwave on 45 second bursts until the oils are around 115 degrees.

Once both the lye solution and the oils are around 115 degrees (between 10 degrees of each other) you can begin soaping!

Place the stick blender into the oils at an angle and burp the blender by gently knocking the stick blender on the bottom of the Pyrex. Pour the lye solution down the arm of the stick blender and start mixing until you have reached a thin trace.

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Pour the soap batter to the lines on the easy pour containers. There should be some soap remaining after pouring.

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Add the dispersed Ultramarine Blue to the remaining soap (the soap NOT in either of the easy pours).

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Add the titanium dioxide to one of the easy pours. The second easy pour will not be colored.

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Once your color is fully incorporated, add ALL of the fragrance to the blue layer. This fragrance will immediately begin to rice and accelerate your traces. Stir your fragrance in quickly.

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Pour the white soap clockwise at 12 o’clock, 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock, and 9 o’clock in order to create an in-the-pot-swirl. Pour any remaining soap into the middle of the blue batter.

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Using the handle of a wooden spoon, swirl once through the concoction.

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Pour the in-the-pot swirl into the silicone loaf.

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Using a regular kitchen spoon, swoop the middle of the soap to create a wavy look in the soap.

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Using a powder sifter, sprinkle Sparkle Gold Mica on top of the first layer. We want the layer to be relatively thick so we can see the vein easily. However this can lead to separation of layers. Try to avoid the corners of the soap to help prevent separation.

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Now using a silicone spoon to help prevent breakthrough, slowly and carefully add the last layer of soap (the uncolored one) on top of the Sparkle Gold Mica.

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Spoon the soap towards the middle to create a peak look. You may need to wait a few minutes until the soap has set enough to be able to achieve this look.

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Sprinkle Fine Black Sea Salt on the peak of the soap.

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Spray with rubbing alcohol to help prevent soda ash and cover to help promote gel phase. Do not spray with rubbing alcohol after initial spray, as the activated charcoal in the salt can bleed.

Wait at least 48 hours to cut your soap. Lay on its side to cut to help prevent the salt from scratching the soap.

Allow to cure for 4-6 weeks before use. Enjoy!

Salty Final

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Batman Hanger Swirl Soap

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Na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na Na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na Batman! What would super hero month be without the famous Batman?? This cold process soap was inspired by our good Samaritan friend Batman! We chose to use Bramble Berry’s Lots of Lather Quick Mix as our recipe. This Quick mix yields a wonderfully moisturizing bar of soap with-you guessed it-an amazing lather! Scented with Vetyver fragrance oil to add a wonderfully woodsy aroma, this soap is sure to pack a powerfully cleansing kick to your daily  routine!

***This recipe yields about three pounds of soap***

What You’ll Need:

Ingredients:

33 oz Lots of Lather Quick Mix
4.7 oz lye
11 oz water

1 tsp activated charcoal (dispersed in avocado oil)
1/2 tsp fizzy lemonade (dispersed in avocado oil)
2 oz Vetyver FO

Hardware:

Scale
10″ Silicone Loaf Mold
Hanger Swirl Tool
Small ramekins (2)
Mini Mixer
Thermometer
Glass pyrex (2 four oz, 1 two quartz)
Easy Pour
Stainless steel whisk
Stick Blender
Goggles
Gloves

*If you are not local, you can get all of this and more at Bramble Berry! They will ship directly to you!**

If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out Brambleberry’s FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including Anne-Marie’s newest book, Pure Soapmaking. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

__________

DIRECTIONS:

COLOR PREP:

In a small ramekin or dixie cup, measure out 1 tsp activated charcoal and add a small amount of any fixed oil (we chose avocado oil). Use just enough oil to saturate the charcoal.  Then combine using Bramble Berry’s mini mixer.
In a separate small ramekin, disperse 1/2 tsp fizzy lemonade in avocado oil using the same method.

Weigh out 2 oz Vetyver FO into a small container and set aside.

OTHER PREP:

Mark your easy pour container at the 500 mL line.

Begin by organizing your area so that everything is ready to go. Place your ramekin of fizzy lemonade by the easy pour container. Have your fragrance, mold, and swirl hanger ready to go. Measure the swirl hanger to the length of the 10″ silicone loaf.

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LYE PREP:

Measure the distilled water into one glass container, and the lye into another. Carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir with a stainless steel whisk until solution is clear. Allow the lye to cool to around 115 degrees by either labeling and setting aside, or by placing into a designated freezer. We recommend using Brambleberry’s Infrared Thermometer. These are amazing because they are so easy to use and you don’t have to worry about getting your thermometer covered in lye water!

While the lye is cooling, microwave the lots of lather quick mix on 30 second bursts until the oils are around 115 degrees.

Once both the lye solution and the lots of lather quick mix solution are around 115 degrees (between 10 degrees of each other) you can begin soaping! Make sure you have gloves, goggles and long sleeves for protection.

Place the stick blender into the oils at an angle and burp the blender by gently knocking the stick blender on the bottom of the Pyrex to avoid mixing in any air bubbles. Pour the lye solution down the arm of the stick blender and start mixing until you have reached a thin trace.

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Once you have reached trace, pour the soap batter in your easy pour container to the line. Add the dispersed fizzy lemonade and mix well until fully incorporated. Be sure the get all the sides of the easy pour.

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Leave the rest of the soap batter in the 2 quart mixing bowl and add the dispersed activated charcoal. Mix well until fully incorporated.

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Add about 1/3 of the fragrance to the fizzy lemonade soap batter and mix well (you can eyeball this).

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Add the rest of the fragrance oil to the activated charcoal soap batter and mix well.

Pour a thin layer of the activated charcoal layer on the bottom of the 10″ silicone loaf mold.

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Gently tap the mold on the table to even the soap out.

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Pour about half the yellow soap batter to one side of the silicone loaf mold.

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Pour most of the remaining activated charcoal soap batter on the opposite side of the yellow soap batter.

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Pour the remaining yellow soap batter on the same side as before.

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Pour the remaining activated charcoal batter on top of the soap.

Push the hanger down the side of the soap with the yellow soap batter and swirl away from your body 2-3 times, emerging from the soap in the middle of the loaf.

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Spoon the middle of the soap.

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Spray with 99% rubbing alcohol to help prevent soda ash and cover to promote gel phase.

Wait at least 48 hours to cut with a multi-bar cutter. Let cure 4-6 weeks.

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Enjoy your batman-themed soap!

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Don’t forget, for the month of April, take 15% off botanicals here in-store at Otion.

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Avenger’s Water Soluble Melt & Pour Soap

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Continuing on with Super Hero month, we decided to make Avenger’s soap! We love water-soluble paper here. Anything you can print on a piece of paper can be embedded into your melt and pour soap! We couldn’t wait to embed our favorite crime-fighting team into soap! Keep reading to learn more about how to put YOUR favorite heroes in soap 🙂

What You’ll Need:

Water Soluble Paper
12 bar square silicone mold
Smoky Patchouli FO
10 drops liquid red
5 drops liquid orange
2 drops liquid black
2 drops liquid green
Droppers
Scale
Forks (6)
Mugs (6)

If you are not local, you can find all of this and more at Bramble Berry!

Directions:

***You will need to print your pictures at least 24 hours in advance to help prevent the ink from bleeding***

Ensure your pictures are 2 1/2″ by 2 1/2″. Print your pictures through your laser printer. Cut them before you begin soaping.

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Melt 4 oz of clear melt & pour soap. It needs to be clear melt & pour specifically, because other “clear” melt and pour bases, such as aloe or olive oil, have a slight tint to them, and we need this first layer to be as clear as possible. We also don’t want to fragrance this layer. Fragrance oils can discolor soap and again, we want to be able to see our picture as clearly as possible!

Melt 9 oz of shea melt & pour soap. Add 15 drops of Smoky Patchouli FO. Mix well. This soap will be the second layer of the soap. We want it to be white so the picture will really pop.

Remove your fork from the mug with the clear melt & pour and spray your mug with rubbing alcohol to rid the mug of bubbles. Wait for a minute or two before pouring to also help prevent bubbles.

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Pour just enough of the clear soap into the mold as to cover the bottom of the mold. Spray once or twice with rubbing alcohol to remove any bubbles that may have formed.

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Immediately place your picture face down in the soap. Place one end of the picture in the soap and slowly let the picture fall. The soap should slowly saturate the picture. Repeat with all four pictures. Remember which cavity has which picture! We will be corresponding the pictures to the colors on the second layer of the soap. Wait a few minutes for the soap to solidify enough to layer.

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Once the first layer has solidified enough to layer, pour your shea melt & pour soap over a spoon or a fork to help prevent breakthrough. We call this the spoon-fork technique. If you don’t have experience working with layering melt and pour soap, we recommend you check out this blog first. Fill the mold about halfway full.

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Measure out two mugs each with 3 oz of shea melt & pour. Measure our another two mugs, each with 3 oz of clear melt & pour. Pop in the microwave on 30 second bursts until fully melted.

In one of the shea mugs, add 10 drops of liquid red oxide colorant and 5 drops Smoky Patchouli FO.

In the other shea mug, add 5 drops orange colorant and 5 drops Smoky Patchouli FO.

In one of the clear mugs, add 2 drops liquid black oxide and 5 drops Smoky Patchouli FO.

In the other clear mug, add 2 drops liquid green and 5 drops Smoky Patchouli FO.

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Once the second layer has solidified enough to layer, pour your layers using the spoon-fork technique. The black layer is for the avengers logo, the green is for the hulk, the orange is for black widow, and the red is for Iron Man.

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Let your soap solidify completely, either by placing in a freezer for about 30 minutes, or leaving at room temperature for a couple of hours. Pop of of the mold and enjoy!

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avengers

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Like this blog? Check out this blog we made a few years back about water soluble traveler’s soap!

Don’t forget, for the month of April take 15% off Botanicals.

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Black Oval Bee Soap

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Continuing on with bee month, this adorably simple bar of soap is a fun and easy project for beginners and experts alike! Activated charcoal helps to pull out impurities while the combination of jojoba and rice bran oil leave your skin feeling extra hydrated for these blustery winter months. Read on to learn how to create this BEE-utiful soap!

Yields about 5 pounds (about three 6 Bar Oval Silicone Molds)

What You’ll Need:

Ingredients:

20 oz Distilled Water
8.52 oz Lye
0.3 oz Apricot Kernel Oil
3.5 oz Castor Oil
18 oz Coconut Oil
1.4 oz Jojoba Oil
9.5 oz Olive Oil Pure
16 oz Palm Oil
11.3 oz Rice Bran Oil

3.5 oz Sultry Black Jasmine Fragrance Oil
1 tbsp. Activated Charcoal (dispersed in olive oil)
99% Isopropyl Alcohol

Hardware:

6 Bar Oval Silicone Mold (3)
Small Ramekin
Measuring Spoons
Mini Mixer
Thermometer
Glass Pyrex (3)
Stainless Steel Whisk (2)
Stick Blender
Gloves
Goggles
Toy Bees

**If you are not local, you can get all of this and more at Bramble Berry! They will ship directly to you!**

If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! I highly recommend checking out Brambleberry’s FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. And if you’d rather do some reading, Bramble Berry carries a wide range of books on the topic, including Anne-Marie’s newest book, Pure Soapmaking. You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor.

__________

COLOR PREP:

In small ramekin or dixie cup, measure out 1 tbsp activated charcoal and add to a small amount of any fixed oil (we chose olive oil). Use just enough oil to saturate the charcoal.  Then combine using Bramble Berry’s mini mixer.

Weigh out 3.5 oz Sultry Black Jasmine FO into a small container and set aside.

LYE PREP:

Measure the distilled water into one glass container, and the lye into another. Carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir with a stainless steel whisk until solution is clear. Allow the lye to cool to around 115 degrees by either labeling and setting aside, or by placing into a designated freezer. We recommend using Brambleberry’s Infrared Thermometer. These are amazing because they are so easy to use and you don’t have to worry about getting your thermometer covered in lye water!

While the lye is cooling, weigh out all the fixed oils in a large glass Pyrex bowl and heat in the microwave until the oils are around 115 degrees.

Once both the lye solution and the fixed oil solution are around 115 degrees (between 10 degrees of each other) you can begin soaping! Make sure you have gloves, goggles and long sleeves for protection.

Place the stick blender into the oils at an angle and burp the blender by gently knocking the stick blender on the bottom of the Pyrex to avoid mixing in any air bubbles. Pour the lye solution down the arm of the stick blender and start mixing until you have reached a thin trace. The fragrance oil we will be using accelerates trace, so beginning with a light trace will help us when we add that fragrance oil.

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Once you have reached trace, add the activated charcoal and mix with a whisk until fully incorporated.

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Add the fragrance oil and whisk until fully incorporated.

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As this fragrance accelerates trace, you will want to work quickly when pouring the soap into the mold.

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As soon as you have poured the soap into the oval silicone mold, place one of Brambleberry’s toy bees in the center of each cavity just enough for the bee to stick to the soap.

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Spray with 99% rubbing alcohol to reduce soda ash and cover to encourage gel phase.

After a few days, unmold and let sit for 4-6 weeks to fully cure.

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Do you LOVE activated charcoal as much as we do? If so, check out this awesome Soap Queen tutorial on Charcoal Facial Soap!

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Black & White Bee Soap

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It is officially February, and this month we are bringing you everything BEES! This project utilized one of our favorite silicone loaf molds and smells of the amazing pure honey fragrance oil! Read on to find out how to make this bee inspired soap.

What You’ll Need:

Embed:
4.5 oz Clear Melt & Pour Soap
Fizzy Lemonade Color Block
Yellow Oxide Color Block
Mini Heart Silicone Embed
Easy Pour Container

Loaf:
3 lb Clear Melt & Pour Soap
Black Oxide Color Block
Titanium Dioxide Color Block
10 mL Pure Honey Fragrance Oil
Tall 12″ Silicone Loaf Mold
Droppers
2 Pyrex Containers

**If you are not local, you can get all of this and more at Bramble Berry! They will ship directly to you!**

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In an easy pour container, melt down 4.5 oz clear melt & pour soap. Once melted, add in shavings of fizzy lemonade color block and yellow oxide color block. (We used more fizzy lemonade then yellow oxide.)

Once you get your desired color, place the mini heart embed in a tall cup and pour the soap into the embed. Leave on the counter to fully harden or place in the freezer.

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While you are waiting for the embed to harden up, melt down 22.5 oz clear melt & pour soap in a pyrex container. Once fully melted, add in shavings of the black oxide color block as well as 5 mL of fragrance oil. Mix in well and set aside.

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In another pyrex container melt down another 22.5 oz clear melt and pour. Add in shavings of titanium dioxide color block and 5 mL fragrance oil. Mix everything in until completely incorporated.

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Check on the heart embed and see if it has hardened up yet. If it has, take it out of the mold, and cut to the length of the tall 12″ silicone loaf mold. Set aside.

Pour the black soap into the bottom of the loaf mold about 1/2 inch. Spray with rubbing alcohol to get rid of any bubbles.

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Once the first layer has hardened up enough to pour another layer of soap, use a spoon and spoon in white soap on top of the black layer. Keep adding white soap until there is about 1/2 inch of soap. Spray with rubbing alcohol.

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When the white layer has harden up a bit, place the heart embed off-centered on top of the layer of soap. Be sure not to press down to hard as you don’t want to puncture the previous layer. Spray well and start adding another layer of black soap. Add enough soap to fully cover the heart embed.

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Repeat with one more layer of white soap and finish with a layer of black soap. In the end, there will be three layers of black and two layers of white.

Spray the top with rubbing alcohol to ensure you have a smooth surface. Let fully harden before unmolding.
*Note: Do not place the soap loaf into the freezer as this will increase the chances having the layers separate.*

After you have unmolded the soap, place the soap loaf on its side and cut the bars going with the layers, not against. This will also help ensure the layers don’t separate.

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