Hot Process Oven Process

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Continuing with our month of learning, today is about Hot Process! We have never attempted at making Hot Process Oven Process Soap before because we don’t have an oven at Otion. Luckily, the lovely Samantha here at Otion said we could use her kitchen to attempt at this project. So, we packed up everything we needed and we jumped right in!

What You’ll Need:

0.2 oz Castor Oil
4.6 oz Coconut Oil
2.3 oz Argan Oil
5.8 oz Olive Oil Pure
4.6 oz Palm Oil
5.5 oz Rice Bran Oil
3.13 oz Sodium Hydroxide (superfatted at 7%)
7.6 oz Distilled Water
1.5 tsp Sodium Lactate
1.2 oz Sweet Grass Fragrance Oil
2 tsp Spirulina Powder
2 tsp Olive Leaf Powder
2lb Wooden Mold
Stainless Steel Pot

**If you aren’t local and can’t come into Otion for supplies, head on over to www.brambleberry.com to have your supplies shipped right to you!**

First and foremost, make sure you have all of your safety bases covered! Goggles, gloves, closed toed shoes, long sleeves, well ventilated area etc.

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Oven Prep: Adjust the racks in the oven so that there is one rack on the lowest notch, and one rack just above it. Be sure that the central rack isn’t too close to any heating elements. Line the bottom of the oven with foil, or place an old cookie sheet on the bottom rack (in cast of soap overflow). Preheat the oven to 170 degrees Fahrenheit.

Color & Fragrance Prep: Disperse Spirulina and Olive Leaf Powder in 99% Isopropyl Alcohol. Use 1 tablespoon of alcohol for each teaspoon of powder. Use a mini mixer to make quick work of the dispersing, but be sure to saturate the powders in the alcohol with the tip of the mixer before turning it on (it puffs into the air otherwise). The reason we disperse the powders in alcohol is to make them easier to mix in. Measure out scent in a separate container and set aside.

One: Carefully measure out the lye and distilled water into two separate glass bowls. Add the lye to the water and stir until clear. Set aside to cool.
(Be sure to be in a well ventilated area when working with lye.)

Two: Melt down Palm & Coconut Oils completely before measuring out. Once melted, measure and combine all of the oils together in the stainless steel pot.

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Three: Once the lye water and oils have cooled to 130 degrees Fahrenheit, slowly and carefully add the lye water to the oils. (It helps to reduce splashing if you pour down the shaft of the stick blender). Bring to a light trace. Do not fill your pot over half full. Every so often, the soap can foam up during this process and make a mess in your stove. More head space will help to prevent this.

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Four: Place the soap in your pre-heated oven and set the timer for 15 minutes.

Five: Check the status after 15 minutes. Has the soap started to gel yet? You can tell that the soap is starting to gel when you see a darker-hued and gelatinous-looking ring starting to form. Nothing yet? Stick that batch back in the oven for another 15 minutes.

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Six: Repeat step five until your soap has gone through a full get phase, meaning the entire soap has taken on the darker-hued and gelatinous look. It could take 45 minutes or it could take 60 minutes. Keep checking on it!

Seven: Once your soap has fully gelled, remove the soap from the oven and add 1.5 tsp Sodium Lactate. Stir up the soap; it should have the consistency of mashed potatoes when it mixes, not too wet and not too dry. Add the fragrance and mix well.

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Note: For the next steps, be prepared to move quickly! The soap may start to harden/dry up, and you want to be able to get all of your colors mixed in and the soap in the mold before that happens.

Eight: Split the batch into two equal parts. No need to measure specifically, just eyeball it. Color each of the parts with designated dispersed powders. Mix in well.

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Nine: Pour, or in our case, plop the soap into the mold, starting with the darker colored soap. Once all of the first color is in the mold, spread it out using a spatula to create a perfectly imperfect layer, then tap the mold on the table to eliminate air bubbles. Follow with the last color, plopping the soap on top of the bottom layer then spreading it out with a spatula. Tap the mold to remove air bubbles once more.

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Ten: Use a spatula on the final layer to create peaks. Allow the soap to sit in the mold for 24-48 hours. Unmold, cut, and this soap is ready to use right away! But, it will last longer in the shower if you allow it the standard 4-6 week curing time.

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It has been a few days and it is still a bit soft, so we will let it cure for a couple more weeks before we use it!

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